mattis magna

Stop Chasing Perfection. While surfing (ideally) is great for being in the moment, it’s also incredibly easy to think about why it’s not good as it could be. Yeah, the wind is a little onshore. And yes, the direction is a bit off. But it doesn’t matter, really. Being too focused on a destination can ruin your whole trip. There are a million clichés around that, and they’re all true. Enjoy the wave you’re on, don’t hate it for being too small. Try not to think about how much better it was the last time you were here, or during that perfect swell last fall. Enjoy the moments of greatness, but realize that they are few and far between. After all, that’s what makes them great.