Category 3

Ära püüa näida surfar

Don’t Try to be a Surfer. Just surf. If you surf, and you love surfing, you’re a surfer. Don’t actively try and be a surfer that you’ve seen in a movie, because they’re not real. And if they were, they wouldn’t be all that great. Just be who you are, and surf while you’re doing it. There’s almost nothing worse than talking to someone who has recently identified you as a surfer while they themselves are also a surfer. It’s not some elite club with a secret handshake and a lig patinay password. It’s just surfing, and Spicoli isn’t real – nor should he be.


mattis magna

Stop Chasing Perfection. While surfing (ideally) is great for being in the moment, it’s also incredibly easy to think about why it’s not good as it could be. Yeah, the wind is a little onshore. And yes, the direction is a bit off. But it doesn’t matter, really. Being too focused on a destination can ruin your whole trip. There are a million clichés around that, and they’re all true. Enjoy the wave you’re on, don’t hate it for being too small. Try not to think about how much better it was the last time you were here, or during that perfect swell last fall.


Don’t Pull Back

Don’t Pull Back. Surfing can be scary sometimes. That’s part of the fun. But because it can be scary, it can also be very easy to back out of opportunities that may not come your way again. Remember that wave you pulled back on that you wish you didn’t? Everyone has a few of those. Don’t pull back. Unless you’re surfing massive Teahupoo, chances are good that you won’t die. Sure, you might get a little hurt, but that will heal. And if you make it, that memory will be a whole lot better than kicking yourself for the rest of your life.