mattis magna
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Stop Chasing Perfection. While surfing (ideally) is great for being in the moment, it’s also incredibly easy to think about why it’s not good as it could be. Yeah, the wind is a little onshore. And yes, the direction is a bit off. But it doesn’t matter, really. Being too focused on a destination can ruin your whole trip. There are a million clichés around that, and they’re all true. Enjoy the wave you’re on, don’t hate it for being too small. Try not to think about how much better it was the last time you were here, or during that perfect swell last fall.
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Don’t Try to be a Surfer. Just surf. If you surf, and you love surfing, you’re a surfer. Don’t actively try and be a surfer that you’ve seen in a movie, because they’re not real. And if they were, they wouldn’t be all that great. Just be who you are, and surf while you’re doing it. There’s almost nothing worse than talking to someone who has recently identified you as a surfer while they themselves are also a surfer. It’s not some elite club with a secret handshake and a lig patinay password. It’s just surfing, and Spicoli isn’t real – nor should he be.